tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88907499628412781602024-03-04T20:30:57.991-08:00American Riviera BoulderingClimbing Around Santa Barbara: Beyond The GuidebookBrianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.comBlogger34125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-5952011485120814692012-06-17T06:44:00.002-07:002012-06-17T06:44:35.404-07:00Repost: Santa Barbara Bouldering Video<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/44146762" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="100%"></iframe><br />
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Bravo to Trevor on his profile of selected Santa Barbara classics.</div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-13157670768909943252012-01-31T05:10:00.000-08:002012-01-31T05:14:03.706-08:00Potter's Point Bouldering<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/aILAcukSU9s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">Rad.</div><div style="text-align: center;">More on <a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/potters-point-inc-caveman/107145903" target="_blank">MP</a>. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">Good Work Boys!</div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-21673053384101770852011-06-26T11:59:00.000-07:002011-06-26T12:01:21.338-07:00Sespe Wilderness Bouldering Video<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/NGo7EpDs66U" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="390" width="100%"></iframe><br /><div style="text-align: center;">Damn!<br />Well Done!<br />(Damn!)</div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-36836805408542313462010-10-02T14:53:00.000-07:002010-10-04T21:53:24.853-07:00Please Be Nice to Santa Barbara Bouldering<div style="text-align: center;">Recently, I came across this <a href="http://www.king-dino.com/rant.html">rant</a>.<br /><br />I've moved away from the Central Coast of California, but it still has a place in my heart. The people, environment, and climbing of Santa Barbara are special. Treat them with due respect.<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-59566196112144069932008-12-31T18:39:00.000-08:002010-10-02T14:53:13.472-07:00Preface<div style="text-align: center;">This blog describes climbing around Santa Barbara not covered in the guide books, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Santa-Barbara-Ventura/dp/1560446870/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1230000200&sr=8-1">here</a> and <a href="http://www.onlinesports.com/pages/I,AL-MGS061.html">here</a>.<br /><br />It is not complete, authoritative, or very accurate. It is just a starting point. I don't care enough about names, grades, or first ascents to argue about them. I have only included names of climbs which I have heard other climbers use. I choose to grade problems : Easy, Medium, and Hard. No first ascent information is given.<br /><br />I have enjoyed the climbs profiled here.<br />I hope others enjoy them also.<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-19343738320345537472008-12-29T11:51:00.000-08:002009-01-01T19:50:09.598-08:00Upper Upper San Ysidro, Directions<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBc2T6R145FeYV2hxQL78LQdCN0QBGT5HuN8cpywNkdoGH32HHrrMAjAGWhctJ4GdGAMgOqJX6-VeoM8Ro8i2B5QEjzjlluE-MqzvCVzu7Gfo1YUVoHZkP_13X7wu5GcuF496vCYdR_i8/s1600-h/eden_intro.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBc2T6R145FeYV2hxQL78LQdCN0QBGT5HuN8cpywNkdoGH32HHrrMAjAGWhctJ4GdGAMgOqJX6-VeoM8Ro8i2B5QEjzjlluE-MqzvCVzu7Gfo1YUVoHZkP_13X7wu5GcuF496vCYdR_i8/s400/eden_intro.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278623801413614562" border="0" /></a>This place has a peaceful secluded feeling with impeccable rock quality. You will have to work for it. It is a 30 minute uphill hike from the trailhead to the first boulder. Park at the San Ysidro Trailhead,<a href="http://www.santabarbarahikes.com/hikes/frontcountry/directions/index.shtml?san_ysidro"> directions</a>, and hike towards the <a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/central_coast/santa_barbara/106018403">San Ysidro Climbing Area</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQfbc7ulBi0rzaWSBbDhT0F7MBlhTGE1RM-rjfq5wofUQ9gYR5p_fXQcrb_9VY2iTe99rF6Y9l0JWAm16dxhgjnzBbbUAY4zTrCQJBSasLywDiocn3H9x1UtWW8jxVcAq7Z_aMLWJF6rI/s1600-h/gate.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQfbc7ulBi0rzaWSBbDhT0F7MBlhTGE1RM-rjfq5wofUQ9gYR5p_fXQcrb_9VY2iTe99rF6Y9l0JWAm16dxhgjnzBbbUAY4zTrCQJBSasLywDiocn3H9x1UtWW8jxVcAq7Z_aMLWJF6rI/s400/gate.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282822567039171810" border="0" /></a>At the gate, head up the fire road (blue arrow) and not towards San Ysidro Climbing Area (black arrow).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOviKuYovhEbk4UH6jXnDXbvDeiSxnSEBqfbitIDpj_L3WgHUIBsjISphZxxqI8WVsI6rNhXZ-QMPblBIOe946i6aD46g5TyJtlCjNHEsBxegUeyMxL9UFmVqsgr89JtgPulvzW41VHOU/s1600-h/highballpotential.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOviKuYovhEbk4UH6jXnDXbvDeiSxnSEBqfbitIDpj_L3WgHUIBsjISphZxxqI8WVsI6rNhXZ-QMPblBIOe946i6aD46g5TyJtlCjNHEsBxegUeyMxL9UFmVqsgr89JtgPulvzW41VHOU/s400/highballpotential.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282823134236127298" border="0" /></a>After 15 minutes from the trailhead, you will see this rock formation.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Bk_qkEQ84ti2TY2YB0w4HwFSh3JweYEY605wY__klXPECIbrmFaaLq9onPzABvhavH_M_vVD9cle176tSC50YacPiE3QxkXrv_fgW-pf5_T-yh9FIAnutnYeZIDlKH0DR5sJAYvWHzg/s1600-h/turnoff.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Bk_qkEQ84ti2TY2YB0w4HwFSh3JweYEY605wY__klXPECIbrmFaaLq9onPzABvhavH_M_vVD9cle176tSC50YacPiE3QxkXrv_fgW-pf5_T-yh9FIAnutnYeZIDlKH0DR5sJAYvWHzg/s400/turnoff.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282824452424654354" border="0" /></a>After 20 minutes from the trailhead, turn onto a smaller trail (blue arrow) before the road drops and turns left.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kgT14rnB49XW8wOc6b7qXpMzlg-pbf8OBJVrixGaL3etrdWHQ-gsoJS4LQrIshAgk_QgT3svZPM1JTCoKNCB5iqVX3DWEai6MCsM7B_ISxti-UJPwLh7k_0EW08xI4VsuNGSJzzNPyY/s1600-h/entry+boulder.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kgT14rnB49XW8wOc6b7qXpMzlg-pbf8OBJVrixGaL3etrdWHQ-gsoJS4LQrIshAgk_QgT3svZPM1JTCoKNCB5iqVX3DWEai6MCsM7B_ISxti-UJPwLh7k_0EW08xI4VsuNGSJzzNPyY/s400/entry+boulder.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282824862759914018" border="0" /></a>After 30 minutes from the trailhead, you will see the first boulder on the right immediately off the trail.<br /><br />(The comments concern the first photos of the place and my dilemma about publishing it.)<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-60279717648849902502008-12-28T19:47:00.000-08:002009-01-01T19:50:47.684-08:00Upper Upper San Yisdro, Part I<div style="text-align: center;">The first rock is immediately off the trail the right.<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ2HyZFMd-TQIcGykBiuS8TSGHxrK84xc6v-wmNLOxCOocyvQ-tsbc37zKCN2mpxHUs19PC_fXgtrrVkpNlLH9eflwOra6XIEYP5pO1c0AeDIoo4khi_XibjPElIN_52Ll3REWiGtHouQ/s1600-h/entry+boulder+lines.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ2HyZFMd-TQIcGykBiuS8TSGHxrK84xc6v-wmNLOxCOocyvQ-tsbc37zKCN2mpxHUs19PC_fXgtrrVkpNlLH9eflwOra6XIEYP5pO1c0AeDIoo4khi_XibjPElIN_52Ll3REWiGtHouQ/s400/entry+boulder+lines.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282831141638128114" border="0" /></a>Red, Easy - Grab head high jug on the right side arete<br />Blue, (?) - Lip traverse from left to right. Start at crack and finish on Red<br /><br /><object height="300" width="400"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2609058&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2609058&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="300" width="400"></embed></object><br /><br /><br />About 20 ft up the trail from the first boulder, the top of a boulder in the riverbed is visible. This boulder is well-featured with excellent rock quality.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHcMZTp2k2t_flmWTLLFgRCdr-OQ0SKmf8iEONdOIo4yk9sdKaseJ9Cypwbd7DZW9tntG030d6HwZxn4GsDG3b3auBiYWWOnHbZStWJGtUtt0lMIQUUoJQyv-Sm7-w3ndnqkihkVc02B0/s1600-h/big+river+boulder.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHcMZTp2k2t_flmWTLLFgRCdr-OQ0SKmf8iEONdOIo4yk9sdKaseJ9Cypwbd7DZW9tntG030d6HwZxn4GsDG3b3auBiYWWOnHbZStWJGtUtt0lMIQUUoJQyv-Sm7-w3ndnqkihkVc02B0/s400/big+river+boulder.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282832255472933650" border="0" /></a>There are at least two lines on the trail side :<br />Red, Easy - SDS, move to inverted "fang" then to acute edges<br />Blue, (?) - Overhanging arete, possible harder SDS<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCKMg4juAQKOLg17Vkt8bMoe7Unbg_gA5HxOfvojOsQfdLe9oZmiZj5ObUk-LREOBkP2n-LNk97lo0Oa5ZVGnJFB-rhhIhStw3dVeK57ye8vQvLTm5xtY6tP-vsXgAXd1UsFzZOulG1I/s1600-h/big+riverbed+boulder+riverside.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCKMg4juAQKOLg17Vkt8bMoe7Unbg_gA5HxOfvojOsQfdLe9oZmiZj5ObUk-LREOBkP2n-LNk97lo0Oa5ZVGnJFB-rhhIhStw3dVeK57ye8vQvLTm5xtY6tP-vsXgAXd1UsFzZOulG1I/s400/big+riverbed+boulder+riverside.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282832662799527394" border="0" /></a>The backside of the same boulder is well featured and high.<br /><br />About 200 ft up the river (follow the trail), there is a small boulder in the river:<br /><object height="300" width="400"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2632993&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2632993&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="300" width="400"></embed></object><br /><br />Just up the river (it is best to follow the trail), there is a crack:<br /><object height="300" width="400"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2612948&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2612948&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="300" width="400"></embed></object><br /><br /><br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-44166306981152926532008-12-27T20:06:00.000-08:002009-01-01T19:51:14.391-08:00Upper Upper San Ysidro, Part II<div style="text-align: center;">Another 200ft up the trail and on the right is a wall. It is 50ft long and ranges from 6ft to 14ft in height.<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3n7THRBMvFdjmtRTOLOd3NLoMGQgDyUsilg6aDaDUNCUdwd_003dqWXPZQEhnW8-2U_qyMozbRcnkkQcVDoCuirYvG35JDpnJ0tTVDaCArTCnrX8UCF1eRPnAjbR_SRel9DfwHF6gq8/s1600-h/bwall_1.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3n7THRBMvFdjmtRTOLOd3NLoMGQgDyUsilg6aDaDUNCUdwd_003dqWXPZQEhnW8-2U_qyMozbRcnkkQcVDoCuirYvG35JDpnJ0tTVDaCArTCnrX8UCF1eRPnAjbR_SRel9DfwHF6gq8/s400/bwall_1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282836314900577698" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-OW-TezxpiwAeboLSrGh3L_2HLIjem2QtbuD1w9jLbxjyBAmh7oE4vxUB2E7ibz2fMNSTscNZ4JMCekTy9HbohJCtchgZfKpsVPjR_Tnb9UUTeM64seQ05HRadA0rd99Q5UoLSF6LKvQ/s1600-h/bwall_2.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-OW-TezxpiwAeboLSrGh3L_2HLIjem2QtbuD1w9jLbxjyBAmh7oE4vxUB2E7ibz2fMNSTscNZ4JMCekTy9HbohJCtchgZfKpsVPjR_Tnb9UUTeM64seQ05HRadA0rd99Q5UoLSF6LKvQ/s400/bwall_2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282837202906486290" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKXrJgd2MhL7KUdU3Jn-1F7B1_SR9r-kC8bHpEfQGsajg7LvfWWE79PaluEVfA8mdf1CoeUGJwjMOF4-Qmkk8yPxTZzYCZuUComCjfxt1ySGMAIX5LQYH_Jg1nFZxqdrncmDIOqJnlIk/s1600-h/bwall_upper.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKXrJgd2MhL7KUdU3Jn-1F7B1_SR9r-kC8bHpEfQGsajg7LvfWWE79PaluEVfA8mdf1CoeUGJwjMOF4-Qmkk8yPxTZzYCZuUComCjfxt1ySGMAIX5LQYH_Jg1nFZxqdrncmDIOqJnlIk/s400/bwall_upper.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282837868970283010" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><object height="300" width="400"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2599422&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2599422&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="300" width="400"></embed></object><br />Climbing the right side of the wall.<br /><br />Around the corner (near the trail), there is a small roof with Joe Valley-like sandstone.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFy_v4lb3TyM_kyLy-DjOAOuBuBvCTf1mRMnf03kR3Ykw8hpXhZ4123jnRwTbB3_kV0UbZfn3KsyRAwie16s96PEz3kdbKIhRBqha41wxeZAyiLlIEcGaysn1kUmBl3-lq1Olh8pI8QT0/s1600-h/roof.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFy_v4lb3TyM_kyLy-DjOAOuBuBvCTf1mRMnf03kR3Ykw8hpXhZ4123jnRwTbB3_kV0UbZfn3KsyRAwie16s96PEz3kdbKIhRBqha41wxeZAyiLlIEcGaysn1kUmBl3-lq1Olh8pI8QT0/s400/roof.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282838571864654802" border="0" /></a><br /><object height="300" width="400"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2593435&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2593435&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="300" width="400"></embed></object><br /><br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-41380404539809650432008-12-26T20:34:00.000-08:002009-01-01T19:51:31.473-08:00Upper Upper San Ysidro, Part IIIFurther up the trail is more rock :<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGIZmaqf3Myt1IuyDm2M-2ooETVdEoB7kCMIoit1-BbeBKHv19qRe9s0goV-6agBs2b-axX2qVHf_DyAkpuzO-_rDMdMrlXqno1F-8u9pVtl2IJ7BhcHjACTDD5XVV6eiQSNlt6N_JT54/s1600-h/boulder&waterfall.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGIZmaqf3Myt1IuyDm2M-2ooETVdEoB7kCMIoit1-BbeBKHv19qRe9s0goV-6agBs2b-axX2qVHf_DyAkpuzO-_rDMdMrlXqno1F-8u9pVtl2IJ7BhcHjACTDD5XVV6eiQSNlt6N_JT54/s400/boulder&waterfall.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282839778596382146" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvYYfKuPljBUO1-KHBB8Lrc9vVs4GtozWgfx_syZNwlqcm9dGlkimZpn56f11_O_FYzWTmQtRtBTgJj09FjsfO02STSbhud8wvyZhKJQgDUzCY6p0fmNfvtUJ7CbJOyJ5DlGmPOuPTkYY/s1600-h/large+arete.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvYYfKuPljBUO1-KHBB8Lrc9vVs4GtozWgfx_syZNwlqcm9dGlkimZpn56f11_O_FYzWTmQtRtBTgJj09FjsfO02STSbhud8wvyZhKJQgDUzCY6p0fmNfvtUJ7CbJOyJ5DlGmPOuPTkYY/s400/large+arete.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282841240597623202" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1SwBBvv0Hcrbev1rfp-qLPDPXDn99HgTxLhf8UBVQVJZ4I4qmXHNwFX0raoTq2_CIGNI7mUPe9jmwzFDMrFBBv_DjSBhbbVAymfbW5yWcj3-xX9J_AICVdYaYRZrKHHJMfOnKu1jc5a4/s1600-h/grit_stone.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1SwBBvv0Hcrbev1rfp-qLPDPXDn99HgTxLhf8UBVQVJZ4I4qmXHNwFX0raoTq2_CIGNI7mUPe9jmwzFDMrFBBv_DjSBhbbVAymfbW5yWcj3-xX9J_AICVdYaYRZrKHHJMfOnKu1jc5a4/s400/grit_stone.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282840725948985506" border="0" /></a>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-79730138474052814692008-12-25T10:27:00.000-08:002009-01-01T19:58:49.133-08:00Upper Noir, Directions & Part I<div style="text-align: center;"> Another perspective on the same <a href="http://www.sbbouldering.com/2008/10/mini-guide-noir-boulders.html">area</a>.<br /><br />Approach:<br />Make a left on West Camino Cielo from the 154. Drive across a short bridge and park in the turnout on the right. Walk back towards the bridge and cut down into the river. Follow the river until you see a rock outcropping on the right. If you get to the Lower Noir Boulders you have gone too far. Climb up the hill and skirt the base of the rock outcropping.<br /><br />In the middle of main area, is a short problem:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hZEkSRy0NpwkjOh2s-EKMWpp5pwAI_OQXz3ILFcaESc5aUpGS3cWXnRJ_LdExCi1G0UuczRXuUOl_cvM3bTYUo2WdKbgHKZyZfaQH91MWdKuYh86t-R1AGjrtg7Q2OZ4JrwFPEHY2w8/s1600-h/the+bear+ate+his+head.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hZEkSRy0NpwkjOh2s-EKMWpp5pwAI_OQXz3ILFcaESc5aUpGS3cWXnRJ_LdExCi1G0UuczRXuUOl_cvM3bTYUo2WdKbgHKZyZfaQH91MWdKuYh86t-R1AGjrtg7Q2OZ4JrwFPEHY2w8/s320/the+bear+ate+his+head.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5143901551354812114" border="0" /></a> Red, Easy - SDS, climb up the arete<br /><br /><br />Adjacent to that boulder are three high balls:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-esj6BCBmhEeN8q7QClE1k-rKgrQT5j_O1ihztLMf28xRUORUZ5D-7WhWdKWu19viAn5M9gMr9BYDKHuzfHhJwAkmLqjaVulwk0oPD6auxGO1nrtg9QY7BM3lmcZkvdZN2Co-EReHz4/s1600-h/DSCN1653.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-esj6BCBmhEeN8q7QClE1k-rKgrQT5j_O1ihztLMf28xRUORUZ5D-7WhWdKWu19viAn5M9gMr9BYDKHuzfHhJwAkmLqjaVulwk0oPD6auxGO1nrtg9QY7BM3lmcZkvdZN2Co-EReHz4/s320/DSCN1653.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5143899154763060914" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Continue up the ridge and past the bolted arete, to a this slab:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ0u_wWhlGKNr4LAss5GIpFGLaa263J2WfwyWZovzSWRJEk2DdM6edStE7C7BirI8w7zQD7l_Dp5B37M6nH02dYyfvqYuhsCGpKrxGftshSwgR56bb7FxAGVvaMeJpP5BChTukAN4W5-Q/s1600-h/every+dog+has+its+day.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ0u_wWhlGKNr4LAss5GIpFGLaa263J2WfwyWZovzSWRJEk2DdM6edStE7C7BirI8w7zQD7l_Dp5B37M6nH02dYyfvqYuhsCGpKrxGftshSwgR56bb7FxAGVvaMeJpP5BChTukAN4W5-Q/s320/every+dog+has+its+day.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5143898965784499858" border="0" /></a>Black, Easy - SDS, climb face<br /><br />At the top of largest of rock formation is another problem:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyivW1YYlydrp-_KPomFTc1D39pXP7dRkZW3jAhzZ0VL1intJxCTXCGIhpBW63eqzPYjmQtXnDkZ27U99e50gkg3onDV85Xo2nTFujMjfzxiGbV0BaO8mUHevo9dRONwmVPcCfV6OqR9k/s1600-h/DSCN1658.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyivW1YYlydrp-_KPomFTc1D39pXP7dRkZW3jAhzZ0VL1intJxCTXCGIhpBW63eqzPYjmQtXnDkZ27U99e50gkg3onDV85Xo2nTFujMjfzxiGbV0BaO8mUHevo9dRONwmVPcCfV6OqR9k/s320/DSCN1658.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5143899253547308738" border="0" /></a> Purple, Hard - SDS on large holds, move up and left to the arete, slopping top out<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-20967454235203228652008-12-24T21:23:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:00:05.939-08:00Upper Noir, Part II<div style="text-align: center;">At the Upper Noir Boulders, there are a couple of problems on the backside of the main boulders:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOtJiZuBJIRxPD2HTIaNWcWih-0uVwUdp2wBoWWy3YFmCCMeabeyNz3_nhzU6vkgPu7tTc6ZKxjadfp8A5jrN3fbxh9cMYLY2ckn5v291C6pq9Un8Du1CYodj-e-84JLhSQFhJBlbzsgk/s1600-h/Look+in+the+mirror+my+friend.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOtJiZuBJIRxPD2HTIaNWcWih-0uVwUdp2wBoWWy3YFmCCMeabeyNz3_nhzU6vkgPu7tTc6ZKxjadfp8A5jrN3fbxh9cMYLY2ckn5v291C6pq9Un8Du1CYodj-e-84JLhSQFhJBlbzsgk/s400/Look+in+the+mirror+my+friend.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5209732741890037298" border="0" /></a>Green, Medium - SDS on two small crimps, traverse left, starting standing and left is easier<br />Blue, Easy - SDS, make a dynamic move to large jug, traverse left<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-39200144423611445112008-12-24T11:02:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:02:25.775-08:00Upper Noir, Part IIl<div style="text-align: center;">The prominent arete in Upper Noir:<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4R45_wdnf6an-v_cJMbWoJx_xs-9zaDDKZe5GaJWBkqt7EMQoS4or7tNYPIv0Exxb7BydpQ7quB_etX88zOSOdrWyGjs0ksdKhw1ZlyyDdAIF-xRGI4o_0Ozg5c_h4ZhdwaUqtZok_tk/s1600-h/DSCN2282.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4R45_wdnf6an-v_cJMbWoJx_xs-9zaDDKZe5GaJWBkqt7EMQoS4or7tNYPIv0Exxb7BydpQ7quB_etX88zOSOdrWyGjs0ksdKhw1ZlyyDdAIF-xRGI4o_0Ozg5c_h4ZhdwaUqtZok_tk/s400/DSCN2282.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213288723122020578" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNpJmVhwgGL6Pxgb-mdSgcH8RPbWi55hb98u_eMPPt8bz4AsgRBTn88wdrywmQKOVIJMz4P8DZwy0lN3iD1lc9cNqEc4tPCZh47X4v50fW9d2f-Kbc7Ijn5XOD9JHyQUt0zX5Y-GGXm8c/s1600-h/DSCN2283.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNpJmVhwgGL6Pxgb-mdSgcH8RPbWi55hb98u_eMPPt8bz4AsgRBTn88wdrywmQKOVIJMz4P8DZwy0lN3iD1lc9cNqEc4tPCZh47X4v50fW9d2f-Kbc7Ijn5XOD9JHyQUt0zX5Y-GGXm8c/s400/DSCN2283.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213288775878199538" border="0" /></a>SDS, climb arete then traverse right to key undercling, sloping top-out<br /><br />The short overhanging face around the corner :<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgytKBETC29ZfQqaCc5PfmXJC1yaDtGTRticV4UU0-6RhGwnU1OwjA55IS4Cbwf7XJqVdq0Sae0EstIKd9StxMDwo_A6aWaKPbwfsuLCxE3Sh2VKAQW4ueMMWP9hixGmwGV1T6g31sKysY/s1600-h/DSCN2286.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgytKBETC29ZfQqaCc5PfmXJC1yaDtGTRticV4UU0-6RhGwnU1OwjA55IS4Cbwf7XJqVdq0Sae0EstIKd9StxMDwo_A6aWaKPbwfsuLCxE3Sh2VKAQW4ueMMWP9hixGmwGV1T6g31sKysY/s400/DSCN2286.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213288842388677074" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFUcW5afs1fFX0ulAPy0V8XYh4PGKTb1nKyZLxWT8PpUgxP9OMnKDlnTuhx-7H44yKxoGlFelDvIyB86UQU03ByTWFv3mYVH_e5BEOji2OadQnlGMiq5ENw0yukLGFCgcivGd7QUxFqKQ/s1600-h/DSCN2291.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFUcW5afs1fFX0ulAPy0V8XYh4PGKTb1nKyZLxWT8PpUgxP9OMnKDlnTuhx-7H44yKxoGlFelDvIyB86UQU03ByTWFv3mYVH_e5BEOji2OadQnlGMiq5ENw0yukLGFCgcivGd7QUxFqKQ/s400/DSCN2291.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213288907109065282" border="0" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">SDS undercling, make a large move to two sloping pinches, then mantle<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-21834733507817677462008-12-23T18:56:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:03:31.571-08:00Upper Noir, Part IV<div style="text-align: center;">The first boulder in Upper Noir:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsJpeYmr3-zKPoOk2GtzuZ8WjnK-Tr8YVrk-wTKG6lMKuWttMU7dhmEUdy4Orf5UMsf5BNTIOA4xt3BqErymMG6zQ3m5fxrmv423yqUm3eGT-n36GXxTl4n1u9mGO8f_NlzQqXbwyJrBw/s1600-h/Rip+Away+the+tears.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsJpeYmr3-zKPoOk2GtzuZ8WjnK-Tr8YVrk-wTKG6lMKuWttMU7dhmEUdy4Orf5UMsf5BNTIOA4xt3BqErymMG6zQ3m5fxrmv423yqUm3eGT-n36GXxTl4n1u9mGO8f_NlzQqXbwyJrBw/s320/Rip+Away+the+tears.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191884936279815586" border="0" /></a>Red, Easy - Stand start on right hand crimp and left hand hueco, go up and left.<br /><br />The river/downhill side of the adjacent boulder:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYxWFcrhZhqHV_HOBpqNo57-F67kdgO8bqFBs75fcKhdoRRLyfFnSsBGYcV8rsWFNeHvSIa24pEdQDwV37dhCsiGnF88yNgCndlW-A9o0oiOOkzzLo9JYQQFBFHvO0yGTPAG0HeJKwNhk/s1600-h/puppies+hair.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYxWFcrhZhqHV_HOBpqNo57-F67kdgO8bqFBs75fcKhdoRRLyfFnSsBGYcV8rsWFNeHvSIa24pEdQDwV37dhCsiGnF88yNgCndlW-A9o0oiOOkzzLo9JYQQFBFHvO0yGTPAG0HeJKwNhk/s320/puppies+hair.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191885082308703666" border="0" /></a>Blue, Easy - SDS on left hand hueco and right hand undercling, move to crimps and pocket, and low angle top out<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-23912992753071750812008-12-22T10:23:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:05:31.241-08:00Upper Noir, Part V<div style="text-align: center;">There is alternative start to the problem on the top of largest formation:<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVRTy0z-uFGVVyeExfbN30NwP3dTnJddHw1TX6eCFycq0uWn6j9rZBKmTbuWiuykG-uA0q8O5Qbh30CRJfaPk_FU4qBjs7LI7h_8ju5k0abWz_N_8mFyh0iAF1EsJihEfHwts40evjas/s1600-h/DSCN1985.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVRTy0z-uFGVVyeExfbN30NwP3dTnJddHw1TX6eCFycq0uWn6j9rZBKmTbuWiuykG-uA0q8O5Qbh30CRJfaPk_FU4qBjs7LI7h_8ju5k0abWz_N_8mFyh0iAF1EsJihEfHwts40evjas/s320/DSCN1985.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5171727759693429346" border="0" /></a>Green, Hard - SDS, traverse left, compress arete, sloping top out<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-89484699668579455452008-12-21T23:16:00.000-08:002009-01-01T21:53:57.617-08:00Upper Noir, Part VI<div style="text-align: center;">There is a bolted line not listed in the Edwards Guide:<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEium-Pt1uLjBwHIBniqkMC8tLL7dM2BYTApuxRQQ4xr5mJ4FQaYxktaZKDFnUfv_1lgkpSF8nwtdtFSPvt8T4AwHBCF9DFEU9E2ZRRV7QgyalSIkEJGdrddvyOPbIrgFAOLBbb2bWOud4A/s1600-h/DSCN1591.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEium-Pt1uLjBwHIBniqkMC8tLL7dM2BYTApuxRQQ4xr5mJ4FQaYxktaZKDFnUfv_1lgkpSF8nwtdtFSPvt8T4AwHBCF9DFEU9E2ZRRV7QgyalSIkEJGdrddvyOPbIrgFAOLBbb2bWOud4A/s320/DSCN1591.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5143594639484613666" border="0" /></a></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-88173974080349674922008-12-21T22:18:00.000-08:002009-01-01T21:53:26.634-08:00Upper Noir, Part VII<div style="text-align: center;">Just downhill from the main area of the Upper Noir Boulders is a tall arete.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJUUadMU6bo8PBR95N_5h4f-cd1SUdy2yOS7HEx6Ye1JQBaLd0yN-8pdnfdY4oTBRaiEsSvTnhDlvzOZPUO-hy8DB1WHZfZqaAfF7DsRShVd_IJ7-vLkwEWodrE828LBsnhP5hYLejY9g/s1600-h/103_1530.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJUUadMU6bo8PBR95N_5h4f-cd1SUdy2yOS7HEx6Ye1JQBaLd0yN-8pdnfdY4oTBRaiEsSvTnhDlvzOZPUO-hy8DB1WHZfZqaAfF7DsRShVd_IJ7-vLkwEWodrE828LBsnhP5hYLejY9g/s400/103_1530.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222735622614069666" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCPHQaW45dqahsP9z8L7aYTL9fTohYhmcfz9UMWUd9fAPJ1B3bRq2yXAnMQn8Ha48N4zV85ajkDdEjKcjuU1sgKaiH-kbB-8b9_4nMzuQDSCAMVPhdWsvtiOFZvzhseHDgAMPi-KnSqtU/s1600-h/103_1532.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCPHQaW45dqahsP9z8L7aYTL9fTohYhmcfz9UMWUd9fAPJ1B3bRq2yXAnMQn8Ha48N4zV85ajkDdEjKcjuU1sgKaiH-kbB-8b9_4nMzuQDSCAMVPhdWsvtiOFZvzhseHDgAMPi-KnSqtU/s400/103_1532.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222735811134825346" border="0" /></a>Dave is 6ft tall and grabbing the starting hold.<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-77969608413295224722008-12-21T09:56:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:08:13.460-08:00Lower Noir, Part I<div style="text-align: center;">On West Camino Cielo at mile 0 is the Noir Boulder. There are lines not listed in Ocean's Eleven.<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4LhUlnkdJ7jTBSRMu8jRFVDEFkjwwwXDMePak9HJUMTVlasLgC_74O3w41PdroLkVMa3wAOTCjQWSJYB4GdL8ZrcMCjCbf-jfvFfNhEHTucKRvoYAcAQR56n4_PEFxilFVkMAuIbJeKs/s1600-h/1+overview+w+lines.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4LhUlnkdJ7jTBSRMu8jRFVDEFkjwwwXDMePak9HJUMTVlasLgC_74O3w41PdroLkVMa3wAOTCjQWSJYB4GdL8ZrcMCjCbf-jfvFfNhEHTucKRvoYAcAQR56n4_PEFxilFVkMAuIbJeKs/s320/1+overview+w+lines.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5143889272043312754" border="0" /></a>Green, Easy - Crack only, lie back or off-width<br />Red, Easy - use everything<br />Black, Medium - SDS, crimps, crack is off<br />Yellow - "Noir Project"<br />Blue, Medium - SDS "tongue", traverse right to heuco, join established problem<br /><br />Another perspective on same boulder:<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRkA-aobEJJ1IBR4cSo3d4STRxjWajp8mQBzVtkr2N63NQwe6ZeEDMbqBh6nNMFNxeqjrYYx-9ss2ilL_Sy6whB1qczN8wDDrJynKK0ijzSTE7yc3ObV0X-1lPtGLbsnTHUD33BzSMJuU/s1600-h/2+left+side.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRkA-aobEJJ1IBR4cSo3d4STRxjWajp8mQBzVtkr2N63NQwe6ZeEDMbqBh6nNMFNxeqjrYYx-9ss2ilL_Sy6whB1qczN8wDDrJynKK0ijzSTE7yc3ObV0X-1lPtGLbsnTHUD33BzSMJuU/s320/2+left+side.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5143889366532593282" border="0" /></a><br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-54510819443663951352008-12-20T10:29:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:12:41.129-08:00Lower Noir, Part II<div style="text-align: center;">Directly across from the Noir Boulder is a small boulder in the river with two problems not listed in <a href="http://www.onlinesports.com/pages/I,AL-MGS061.html">Ocean's Eleven</a>:<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUBmsRv1172ILpeB4C7_SeJCx9TJM4ROBhzsIBYRZU9PdaTti_sy3DPdrjrap5qj4FGP3Ym7fBhN05RLGuNGcS3NWJUwrtHs8iaH208R_VX1np60iLoGu87tw1IdSRp7-rTA45nMxn2Us/s1600-h/DSCN2299.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUBmsRv1172ILpeB4C7_SeJCx9TJM4ROBhzsIBYRZU9PdaTti_sy3DPdrjrap5qj4FGP3Ym7fBhN05RLGuNGcS3NWJUwrtHs8iaH208R_VX1np60iLoGu87tw1IdSRp7-rTA45nMxn2Us/s400/DSCN2299.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213290887285729506" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWaAqB5SOISvC2i4OU_8jqu7YLuqiZuTVxvWYjfYvvMA8IDaxWQ-PK-U1bkqvkeeKPX2KBhcJD7trx1dYmV7bNEPUDIq27wQOdo0QvuR1T3RjeA2ORfF_Lim0ojItOkKvFfHMPiCm5JVg/s1600-h/DSCN2302.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWaAqB5SOISvC2i4OU_8jqu7YLuqiZuTVxvWYjfYvvMA8IDaxWQ-PK-U1bkqvkeeKPX2KBhcJD7trx1dYmV7bNEPUDIq27wQOdo0QvuR1T3RjeA2ORfF_Lim0ojItOkKvFfHMPiCm5JVg/s400/DSCN2302.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213291292161379410" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiehsbAWVvZ7SSY2jyi10r80FJFZY6go_aD6TgKgvBvLNq-bJwUQegTWnGI557KyWp7_o7m7KI0tUYgmkf1BwXjQmn7yJ9lp-PqmPzGHj8-moz-_nVFYpCbzxbK67cp_B-BTbCe4OwrV9I/s1600-h/DSCN2309.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiehsbAWVvZ7SSY2jyi10r80FJFZY6go_aD6TgKgvBvLNq-bJwUQegTWnGI557KyWp7_o7m7KI0tUYgmkf1BwXjQmn7yJ9lp-PqmPzGHj8-moz-_nVFYpCbzxbK67cp_B-BTbCe4OwrV9I/s400/DSCN2309.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213291383065843154" border="0" /></a>Hard - SDS on jug, move to series of small pockets and a seam<br />Easy - slab to the right of the seam, jump start from adjacent boulder is easier then a direct start<br /><br />There is a Vo to the left of the seam, listed in <a href="http://www.onlinesports.com/pages/I,AL-MGS061.html">Ocean's Eleven</a>.<br /><br />100ft down the creek is low angle wall:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihTn5jVD-Ug332k9QF3B_-ytMfRKQlIoyT1M4oMxqltHCZijcFxMkBIqRuZXP3pWqfYJI2uKNi24hRy9Eg5CODMXW5ITymvECSQhdXM3VSs-gLrLksLe33ymj9TGpNitKKnRUXagrRmIo/s1600-h/DSCN2311.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihTn5jVD-Ug332k9QF3B_-ytMfRKQlIoyT1M4oMxqltHCZijcFxMkBIqRuZXP3pWqfYJI2uKNi24hRy9Eg5CODMXW5ITymvECSQhdXM3VSs-gLrLksLe33ymj9TGpNitKKnRUXagrRmIo/s400/DSCN2311.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213299270881209538" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQKXIL0QBQyy_2ERALZZqNvqGYj8TDEJuPNCmbwEY0X28P9mw0UXQMFuAf0JQ0_wqEVLt_t3PG0TV6dSZCOJebsaGdLme8ChTCsNC1oz6PJDLWN3Gb23F1Q04ewxXQfVXhUvoBHidnumA/s1600-h/DSCN2312.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQKXIL0QBQyy_2ERALZZqNvqGYj8TDEJuPNCmbwEY0X28P9mw0UXQMFuAf0JQ0_wqEVLt_t3PG0TV6dSZCOJebsaGdLme8ChTCsNC1oz6PJDLWN3Gb23F1Q04ewxXQfVXhUvoBHidnumA/s400/DSCN2312.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213299555668558594" border="0" /></a><br />(The comment refers to the old version of the website.)<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-77785620442881762312008-12-19T11:08:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:49:56.343-08:00Lizard's Mouth, Part I<div style="text-align: center;">Here is a video of "<a href="http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=7025301">Ganster Hippie"</a> (and a couple of classics).<br /><br />"Gangster Hippie" is located between the Entry Way Area and the road. It faces an approach trail.<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-12672390353029895732008-12-18T11:22:00.000-08:002009-01-01T21:05:18.707-08:00Lizard's Mouth, Part II<div style="text-align: center;">These climbs are between the Entry Way Area and the road:<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBCEq_ZxHx18EcvVAee_1AOhUDPxEnsjQlxW1ifKTW6VF1mwcAr4Ae_JWsqEHDC62RlL31F7CmSU-jxQr1i8UsaE0Qe-Up0gLWbhfoT8e4A_DrYdn2eMQx-EibOJ1P28MuVfL9-5Z76-k/s1600-h/v1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBCEq_ZxHx18EcvVAee_1AOhUDPxEnsjQlxW1ifKTW6VF1mwcAr4Ae_JWsqEHDC62RlL31F7CmSU-jxQr1i8UsaE0Qe-Up0gLWbhfoT8e4A_DrYdn2eMQx-EibOJ1P28MuVfL9-5Z76-k/s320/v1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5088976766670077762" border="0" /></a>Blue, Easy - Climb featured face<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp54iCw7hxq1ILMi8Z9P2XafQmgq9TrywfoY5IGJQ9jTa903ZjO6XYkm3FtTGhy5A2y-RNNEukJqm4HYrLW4_ZU-Lc7x0iBitbsxka8getGLF5BBJHnEO3ufEmcBzKuVN_JmQuT6KMl1Q/s1600-h/moonlight+sonata.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp54iCw7hxq1ILMi8Z9P2XafQmgq9TrywfoY5IGJQ9jTa903ZjO6XYkm3FtTGhy5A2y-RNNEukJqm4HYrLW4_ZU-Lc7x0iBitbsxka8getGLF5BBJHnEO3ufEmcBzKuVN_JmQuT6KMl1Q/s320/moonlight+sonata.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5088976916993933138" border="0" /></a>Green, Medium - SDS, climb arete<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;">On the top of the ridge are a couple of lines:<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTkGKeyDgXhzD18PMVVFCQowqtHKN7s-cJSQzY1MxD-8_jDQl9bL6tX0az6sXxY_Jid6maN5BuxalCxkUvgOZU9OVB7ynPVGJhP9ZU47bMCgC6kn_Ar49N5c4ns6J_jixSFnyHU4nwxIM/s1600-h/easy+stuff.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTkGKeyDgXhzD18PMVVFCQowqtHKN7s-cJSQzY1MxD-8_jDQl9bL6tX0az6sXxY_Jid6maN5BuxalCxkUvgOZU9OVB7ynPVGJhP9ZU47bMCgC6kn_Ar49N5c4ns6J_jixSFnyHU4nwxIM/s320/easy+stuff.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5088976655000928050" border="0" /></a>On top of the ridge is "Gangster Hippie:"</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE9rhVNbFf3NY9Kxx6rJrFduFr_sSGPreWk5budErFzzOZPUWD8fpUniRjYFRUWlpS1dG9idjrFsN0ZePPrCjqFfTk8VV6vzydYHKVhSRWWeVG-kLKu4Wqsg-oI0HnJ6q_8aOXq5qXXg4/s1600-h/ghetto.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE9rhVNbFf3NY9Kxx6rJrFduFr_sSGPreWk5budErFzzOZPUWD8fpUniRjYFRUWlpS1dG9idjrFsN0ZePPrCjqFfTk8VV6vzydYHKVhSRWWeVG-kLKu4Wqsg-oI0HnJ6q_8aOXq5qXXg4/s320/ghetto.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5088977041547984738" border="0" /></a>Gangster Hippie<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-28028616759977922752008-12-17T10:36:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:51:32.479-08:00Lizard's Mouth, Part III<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlEgQpz5_NqcsuTMZstxgp-wUEZbr7NevywoDFBlgcZJZMgbCAP_o2ZAwvhSEaMryyZi8SUZxQ-xV-jvh4iyKkWrAZ8aDjrEkJIvgRyvizO568xeQy_YBGBCbjLScPtBh5Dx0j6zGe3q8/s1600-h/1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 180px; height: 244px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlEgQpz5_NqcsuTMZstxgp-wUEZbr7NevywoDFBlgcZJZMgbCAP_o2ZAwvhSEaMryyZi8SUZxQ-xV-jvh4iyKkWrAZ8aDjrEkJIvgRyvizO568xeQy_YBGBCbjLScPtBh5Dx0j6zGe3q8/s320/1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5120506981933527714" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3LkWb_tr_dSUfFydi1O81xnknz_zWCNrza4PJ7aawDDTn8WaxOe608WmHXIfgS1783wji-UTlBDT8oGcL9AT6FYaMZWOrmAY1OrwawNYkJqKsJw8mLm7yRcuUBTKFmDpPUOJSvZNmu7Q/s1600-h/2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 182px; height: 244px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3LkWb_tr_dSUfFydi1O81xnknz_zWCNrza4PJ7aawDDTn8WaxOe608WmHXIfgS1783wji-UTlBDT8oGcL9AT6FYaMZWOrmAY1OrwawNYkJqKsJw8mLm7yRcuUBTKFmDpPUOJSvZNmu7Q/s320/2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5120506913214050962" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgz08XtcBGSxMev20bXT5l2wbg0czYEqFXBkv6vKxaO1Ps1N6dlTQtIofBqvR2ZPiFcZKzlwvsTglrP6Et6qq_9DmaPyG4jfc_B8wt1p1J46SN-XTUr3pJ1l_Wgp_ZLBe46TNW_jDDsUM/s1600-h/3.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 173px; height: 243px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgz08XtcBGSxMev20bXT5l2wbg0czYEqFXBkv6vKxaO1Ps1N6dlTQtIofBqvR2ZPiFcZKzlwvsTglrP6Et6qq_9DmaPyG4jfc_B8wt1p1J46SN-XTUr3pJ1l_Wgp_ZLBe46TNW_jDDsUM/s320/3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5120506831609672322" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;">This problem is near the Entry Way of Lizard's Mouth, very close to the road. Climb large sandy holds to a pocket, sloping top out.<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-17915465595235616942008-12-16T11:07:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:55:31.627-08:00Lizard's Mouth, Part IV<div style="text-align: center;">There are several lines under the "Hairy Lip" (green).<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxHXVs6ajSRmoqlpPJ8pfbrgrQS-cdTyNlXHc_CzcG-Fyb0QlcPK8r1gzuCQk9QsQCjgHEcT4QoCrkEKndKhOQnfTQ4nBam4D_6tzcJVv_SYBKhlqqGY-ja2WIPaZFMBXJYpYuQd2K1fU/s1600-h/hairy+lip.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxHXVs6ajSRmoqlpPJ8pfbrgrQS-cdTyNlXHc_CzcG-Fyb0QlcPK8r1gzuCQk9QsQCjgHEcT4QoCrkEKndKhOQnfTQ4nBam4D_6tzcJVv_SYBKhlqqGY-ja2WIPaZFMBXJYpYuQd2K1fU/s320/hairy+lip.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119392244646687298" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxqc_G7j7mKwx5J0z_5FJfOs7h2LlMWWb02P18gnenywES6PlUtBjvtufFRbNVtf8Or7Duxuugp49tRm8td9n_lb-E9rhdwo-o335rGjPKYO32PmHt5pBLlNaVKOmxfEr6ihC0hTR6LFc/s1600-h/super+crack+topo.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxqc_G7j7mKwx5J0z_5FJfOs7h2LlMWWb02P18gnenywES6PlUtBjvtufFRbNVtf8Or7Duxuugp49tRm8td9n_lb-E9rhdwo-o335rGjPKYO32PmHt5pBLlNaVKOmxfEr6ihC0hTR6LFc/s320/super+crack+topo.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119391213854536242" border="0" /></a>Hard - SDS start and follow crack to one of two exits, yellow or red<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikqqr9qHUPIgV13atIIVRQorgOp7DmWZLzzgxp5EqKYEiFcLGjDADE-NLPCbCw7w71wel0wamobctXE0WMSNxyhLOA3rJcZ7lk_Rl6RnL1JRGpecoYGiF_W2vJxjgdhgnfIptyuQTPpm4/s1600-h/super+crack+kyle.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikqqr9qHUPIgV13atIIVRQorgOp7DmWZLzzgxp5EqKYEiFcLGjDADE-NLPCbCw7w71wel0wamobctXE0WMSNxyhLOA3rJcZ7lk_Rl6RnL1JRGpecoYGiF_W2vJxjgdhgnfIptyuQTPpm4/s320/super+crack+kyle.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119391127955190306" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Nearby is an arete with toproping bolts:<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ-Fkp-Jw9h6iZ2EHnS1Pc9M7egYN9hNYqWC8nNi454b3KkylzIESxuoeK72f9L2ZeAHdo8xawqFqz1Op-DmrH76rvtqA33mR_tkxKC46UzvOsdtX-1_N9kTt0Q2SqySs4-QjmhxkWD4s/s1600-h/arete.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ-Fkp-Jw9h6iZ2EHnS1Pc9M7egYN9hNYqWC8nNi454b3KkylzIESxuoeK72f9L2ZeAHdo8xawqFqz1Op-DmrH76rvtqA33mR_tkxKC46UzvOsdtX-1_N9kTt0Q2SqySs4-QjmhxkWD4s/s320/arete.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119390969041400322" border="0" /></a>Another perspective on the same arete : <a href="http://www.blogger.com/%20http://www.sbbouldering.com/2008/12/first-ropeless-ascent-of-egret-arete.html">here</a>.<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-88941669978198077082008-12-15T16:48:00.000-08:002009-01-01T20:58:50.986-08:00Lizard's Mouth, Part V<div style="text-align: center;">This problem is between the Entry Way Area and the road, very close to an approach trail: <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj__3R9kIEKIzw0HusyI-LBeZDfCsSo-ubcAqwyOk0aejSlOa5QwJdB8GYkR_PaBaRQFLuekDUB0pR8LVeapJHPr_7nbAEcksOKT0XaGKEg1A49XFrzb9jryLrKkA9FVt5mex1LN4EnDk/s1600-h/1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj__3R9kIEKIzw0HusyI-LBeZDfCsSo-ubcAqwyOk0aejSlOa5QwJdB8GYkR_PaBaRQFLuekDUB0pR8LVeapJHPr_7nbAEcksOKT0XaGKEg1A49XFrzb9jryLrKkA9FVt5mex1LN4EnDk/s320/1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5115407116291420626" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWN23MJAtczYml8BU0yWTHd18IPiuBOjz8GQw1wgSHmILv4w0OHQBDUS2SBlsrI5C3LK4MkrN2BoKxUvEh8rkjPAPM3T6B6UaOL3rRfOXRHudSeo21Nqzdq1BRJ60B_hv11LzpCs8TkSs/s1600-h/2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWN23MJAtczYml8BU0yWTHd18IPiuBOjz8GQw1wgSHmILv4w0OHQBDUS2SBlsrI5C3LK4MkrN2BoKxUvEh8rkjPAPM3T6B6UaOL3rRfOXRHudSeo21Nqzdq1BRJ60B_hv11LzpCs8TkSs/s320/2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5115407185010897378" border="0" /></a>Medium - Start standing with a two finger pocket for your right hand, move over a bugle to match a crimp, then throw for the lip, possible harder SDS</div></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-29215481636916961122008-12-14T16:18:00.000-08:002009-01-01T21:07:17.298-08:00Lizard's Mouth, Part VI<div style="text-align: center;">There is problem on the face immediately behind "Gangstar Hippie" at the Entry Way of Lizard's Mouth: <a href="http://americanrivierabouldering.blogspot.com/2007/07/pre-entry-way.html"></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYWGdYR2t81zFodqlu-beqlLPObNVL9bmpfK1duGocPx6cZZHkfBqTo3C7UCcpipus_xGpaPmtN005Vb4-0oViNhG-4rqoIvsILE8vD99-Qf9KVU17VQS8bNQpYetX3QJsC8a3JAjIsAQ/s1600-h/little+bear+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYWGdYR2t81zFodqlu-beqlLPObNVL9bmpfK1duGocPx6cZZHkfBqTo3C7UCcpipus_xGpaPmtN005Vb4-0oViNhG-4rqoIvsILE8vD99-Qf9KVU17VQS8bNQpYetX3QJsC8a3JAjIsAQ/s320/little+bear+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145844203717498594" border="0" /></a>"Big Bear", Hard - SDS, climb short roof via series of crimps<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8890749962841278160.post-65393585493632220092008-12-13T18:46:00.000-08:002009-01-01T21:54:58.410-08:00Lizard's Mouth, Part VII<div style="text-align: center;">These climbs are in Entry Way Area:<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzDn26sRNeRMVhlL0QSje7F5ZpaFzuRe9e-1hITRzu7sm7717owrVU5wutrWnm93G5hIIHF8RFeWj13LmGMrnWQxxjNZace-cExq8egtLw03zoXvaK-6MXwmoTE-1JU7wUbWxvFs7h3so/s1600-h/top+of+the+world.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzDn26sRNeRMVhlL0QSje7F5ZpaFzuRe9e-1hITRzu7sm7717owrVU5wutrWnm93G5hIIHF8RFeWj13LmGMrnWQxxjNZace-cExq8egtLw03zoXvaK-6MXwmoTE-1JU7wUbWxvFs7h3so/s320/top+of+the+world.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084597344338751154" border="0" /></a> "Little Bear", Red, Hard - SDS, climb the blunt arete<br />Green, Medium - SDS, traverse lip and finish on "Top of the World, Ma"<br />Blue, Easy - Hang slopers then mantle.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;">Directly behind "Top of the World, Ma":<br /></div></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLf8nQo2umQMu0WxQ9ER_DzkBYj-Go6rQaZy3DfXEgBtVOET9r-qq6Iaezj8maX05k0gagD3L0ngAL1RTFwuuB6URkH5cXttWxxRfCFmQQ3IflEp3guycnSNLFU_rkibKWbqapnQdKTzk/s1600-h/Quit+Crowdin+.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLf8nQo2umQMu0WxQ9ER_DzkBYj-Go6rQaZy3DfXEgBtVOET9r-qq6Iaezj8maX05k0gagD3L0ngAL1RTFwuuB6URkH5cXttWxxRfCFmQQ3IflEp3guycnSNLFU_rkibKWbqapnQdKTzk/s320/Quit+Crowdin+.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084595798150524562" border="0" /></a>Blue - SDS to "Stop Crowdin' Me"<br /><br />Backside of same boulder:<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5UJoJV-pokYvQM0Rbd-fPvLfshf50c5FphtFaUGYqFz1RbQ4S6ZlvrWSvNaC-Mfs1zuWC3h_7ULcz1VlreFSpNlmEeE_cXKLb9EPo8h5f6Ff1gVLRRj5erv86-NkUOXD7gbSVvVOK4gI/s1600-h/Other+side%27+Me+of+Quit+Crowdin.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5UJoJV-pokYvQM0Rbd-fPvLfshf50c5FphtFaUGYqFz1RbQ4S6ZlvrWSvNaC-Mfs1zuWC3h_7ULcz1VlreFSpNlmEeE_cXKLb9EPo8h5f6Ff1gVLRRj5erv86-NkUOXD7gbSVvVOK4gI/s320/Other+side%27+Me+of+Quit+Crowdin.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084595690776342146" border="0" /></a>Green, Med - SDS, climb out small cave<br /></div>Brianhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01128736835237266915noreply@blogger.com0