American Riviera Bouldering

Sespe Wilderness Bouldering Video

2011-06-26T11:59:00.000-07:00

Damn!
Well Done!
(Damn!)

Please Be Nice to Santa Barbara Bouldering

2010-10-02T14:53:00.000-07:00

Recently, I came across this rant.

I've moved away from the Central Coast of California, but it still has a place in my heart. The people, environment, and climbing of Santa Barbara are special. Treat them with due respect.

Preface

2008-12-31T18:39:00.000-08:00

This blog describes climbing around Santa Barbara not covered in the guide books, here and here.

It is not complete, authoritative, or very accurate. It is just a starting point. I don't care enough about names, grades, or first ascents to argue about them. I have only included names of climbs which I have heard other climbers use. I choose to grade problems : Easy, Medium, and Hard. No first ascent information is given.

I have enjoyed the climbs profiled here.
I hope others enjoy them also.

Upper Upper San Ysidro, Directions

2008-12-29T11:51:00.000-08:00

This place has a peaceful secluded feeling with impeccable rock quality. You will have to work for it. It is a 30 minute uphill hike from the trailhead to the first boulder. Park at the San Ysidro Trailhead, directions, and hike towards the San Ysidro Climbing Area.

At the gate, head up the fire road (blue arrow) and not towards San Ysidro Climbing Area (black arrow).

After 15 minutes from the trailhead, you will see this rock formation.

After 20 minutes from the trailhead, turn onto a smaller trail (blue arrow) before the road drops and turns left.

After 30 minutes from the trailhead, you will see the first boulder on the right immediately off the trail.

(The comments concern the first photos of the place and my dilemma about publishing it.)

Upper Upper San Yisdro, Part I

2008-12-28T19:47:00.000-08:00

The first rock is immediately off the trail the right.

Red, Easy - Grab head high jug on the right side arete
Blue, (?) - Lip traverse from left to right. Start at crack and finish on Red

About 20 ft up the trail from the first boulder, the top of a boulder in the riverbed is visible. This boulder is well-featured with excellent rock quality.
There are at least two lines on the trail side :
Red, Easy - SDS, move to inverted "fang" then to acute edges
Blue, (?) - Overhanging arete, possible harder SDS

The backside of the same boulder is well featured and high.

About 200 ft up the river (follow the trail), there is a small boulder in the river:

Just up the river (it is best to follow the trail), there is a crack:

Upper Upper San Ysidro, Part II

2008-12-27T20:06:00.000-08:00

Another 200ft up the trail and on the right is a wall. It is 50ft long and ranges from 6ft to 14ft in height.

Climbing the right side of the wall.

Around the corner (near the trail), there is a small roof with Joe Valley-like sandstone.

Upper Upper San Ysidro, Part III

2008-12-26T20:34:00.000-08:00

Further up the trail is more rock :

Upper Noir, Directions & Part I

2008-12-25T10:27:00.000-08:00

Another perspective on the same area.

Approach:
Make a left on West Camino Cielo from the 154. Drive across a short bridge and park in the turnout on the right. Walk back towards the bridge and cut down into the river. Follow the river until you see a rock outcropping on the right. If you get to the Lower Noir Boulders you have gone too far. Climb up the hill and skirt the base of the rock outcropping.

In the middle of main area, is a short problem:
Red, Easy - SDS, climb up the arete

Adjacent to that boulder are three high balls:

Continue up the ridge and past the bolted arete, to a this slab:
Black, Easy - SDS, climb face

At the top of largest of rock formation is another problem:
Purple, Hard - SDS on large holds, move up and left to the arete, slopping top out

Upper Noir, Part II

2008-12-24T21:23:00.000-08:00

At the Upper Noir Boulders, there are a couple of problems on the backside of the main boulders:
Green, Medium - SDS on two small crimps, traverse left, starting standing and left is easier
Blue, Easy - SDS, make a dynamic move to large jug, traverse left

Upper Noir, Part IIl

2008-12-24T11:02:00.000-08:00

The prominent arete in Upper Noir:

SDS, climb arete then traverse right to key undercling, sloping top-out

The short overhanging face around the corner :

SDS undercling, make a large move to two sloping pinches, then mantle

Upper Noir, Part IV

2008-12-23T18:56:00.000-08:00

The first boulder in Upper Noir:
Red, Easy - Stand start on right hand crimp and left hand hueco, go up and left.

The river/downhill side of the adjacent boulder:
Blue, Easy - SDS on left hand hueco and right hand undercling, move to crimps and pocket, and low angle top out

Upper Noir, Part V

2008-12-22T10:23:00.000-08:00

There is alternative start to the problem on the top of largest formation:

Green, Hard - SDS, traverse left, compress arete, sloping top out

Upper Noir, Part VI

2008-12-21T23:16:00.000-08:00

There is a bolted line not listed in the Edwards Guide:

Upper Noir, Part VII

2008-12-21T22:18:00.000-08:00

Just downhill from the main area of the Upper Noir Boulders is a tall arete.

Dave is 6ft tall and grabbing the starting hold.

Lower Noir, Part I

2008-12-21T09:56:00.000-08:00

On West Camino Cielo at mile 0 is the Noir Boulder. There are lines not listed in Ocean's Eleven.

Green, Easy - Crack only, lie back or off-width
Red, Easy - use everything
Black, Medium - SDS, crimps, crack is off
Yellow - "Noir Project"
Blue, Medium - SDS "tongue", traverse right to heuco, join established problem

Another perspective on same boulder:

Lower Noir, Part II

2008-12-20T10:29:00.000-08:00

Directly across from the Noir Boulder is a small boulder in the river with two problems not listed in Ocean's Eleven:

Hard - SDS on jug, move to series of small pockets and a seam
Easy - slab to the right of the seam, jump start from adjacent boulder is easier then a direct start

There is a Vo to the left of the seam, listed in Ocean's Eleven.

100ft down the creek is low angle wall:

(The comment refers to the old version of the website.)

Lizard's Mouth, Part I

2008-12-19T11:08:00.000-08:00

Here is a video of "Ganster Hippie" (and a couple of classics).

"Gangster Hippie" is located between the Entry Way Area and the road. It faces an approach trail.

Lizard's Mouth, Part II

2008-12-18T11:22:00.000-08:00

These climbs are between the Entry Way Area and the road:

Blue, Easy - Climb featured face

Green, Medium - SDS, climb arete

On the top of the ridge are a couple of lines:

On top of the ridge is "Gangster Hippie:"

Gangster Hippie

Lizard's Mouth, Part III

2008-12-17T10:36:00.000-08:00

This problem is near the Entry Way of Lizard's Mouth, very close to the road. Climb large sandy holds to a pocket, sloping top out.

Lizard's Mouth, Part IV

2008-12-16T11:07:00.000-08:00

There are several lines under the "Hairy Lip" (green).

Hard - SDS start and follow crack to one of two exits, yellow or red

Nearby is an arete with toproping bolts:

Another perspective on the same arete : here.

Lizard's Mouth, Part V

2008-12-15T16:48:00.000-08:00

This problem is between the Entry Way Area and the road, very close to an approach trail:

Medium - Start standing with a two finger pocket for your right hand, move over a bugle to match a crimp, then throw for the lip, possible harder SDS

Lizard's Mouth, Part VI

2008-12-14T16:18:00.000-08:00

There is problem on the face immediately behind "Gangstar Hippie" at the Entry Way of Lizard's Mouth:

"Big Bear", Hard - SDS, climb short roof via series of crimps

Lizard's Mouth, Part VII

2008-12-13T18:46:00.000-08:00

These climbs are in Entry Way Area:

"Little Bear", Red, Hard - SDS, climb the blunt arete
Green, Medium - SDS, traverse lip and finish on "Top of the World, Ma"
Blue, Easy - Hang slopers then mantle.

Directly behind "Top of the World, Ma":

Blue - SDS to "Stop Crowdin' Me"

Backside of same boulder:

Green, Med - SDS, climb out small cave

Brickyard, Part I

2008-12-12T18:47:00.000-08:00

These problems are not in the guidebook and can be found on the Dancing Outlaw/Smooth Criminal Boulder:
All problems SDS far right and traverse to the left with different exits :
Blue, Hard - make big traverse move then big up move to exit

"Limbo", Green, V8/9 - traverse into "Dancing Outlaw", traditional finish
"Purgatory", Black, V9/10 - traverse into "Dancing Outlaw", finish right
"Zombie Armeddegon", Red, V10/11 - traverse into "Akiba's Prison"

Additional Pictures :

Brickyard, Part II

2008-12-11T12:35:00.000-08:00

Daniel Kovner
"Zombie Armageddon"

Brickyard, Part III

2008-12-10T14:19:00.000-08:00

"O Tannenbaumgreen", Green, Hard - shallow groove to the right of "Premium Blend", technical gaston moves yields to higher, easier moves.

Pine Mountain, Part I

2008-12-09T12:25:00.000-08:00

Next to the fire pit near the "Hueco Problem" is the following problem:

"Full Body Pillow"

Pine Mountain, Part II

2008-12-08T18:48:00.000-08:00

Lower Ridge:

"Involuntary Luge", Black, Hard - SDS "Dreams", climb straight up.
Green, Medium - SDS, climb the right arete
Red, Medium - SDS, link right arete into "Dreams"

Site 1:
Directly across the road from site 1 is a boulder with the following problems :

Right Line, Medium - SDS, up and left on slopers
Center Line, Medium - SDS, couple of difficult moves leads to easy finish

Site 3:

"Yogi", Red, V3 - SDS to "Apocalypse Now"
"Full Mediation", Blue, V5 - SDS, traverse left and up into "Apocalypse Now"

The Keep:
On the other side of "Unjustified" is this problem:

"Little Bit Louder" (?), Green, V6/7 - Left hand on dish and right hand on pebble, cross into high right hand, long pull to left hand dish, and finish straight up

Highway 33, Wheeler Gorge

2008-12-07T09:26:00.000-08:00

"Roadside Distraction" has an additional bolt and anchors.

Highway 33, mile 19

2008-12-06T12:17:00.000-08:00

There is climbing near the North Fork of Matilija Creek. Park between mile marker 19.5 and 19.78 on Highway 33 near the Wheeler Gorge Nature Trail.

The first boulder is about 200 feet up the North Fork of Matilija Creek.

Green, Easy
Blue, Easy
Yellow, Easy
Red, Easy

Another 100 feet up river is another problem:

Highway 33, Munson Boulders, Mile 37

2008-12-05T11:17:00.000-08:00

The Munson Boulders are found at mile marker 37 on Highway 33.

They are briefly covered in Ocean's Eleven.

Blue, Medium - SDS, follow line of pockets
Red, Easy - Obvious line of holds to the right of Blue

Playground, Amphitheater

2008-12-04T11:02:00.000-08:00

The "Green Room" was listed in the guide as 5.11 A0. It goes free at 5.13b.

Jamie on the crux

Additional photos : Free climbed, Free soloed