Upper Noir, Directions & Part I

Another perspective on the same area.

Approach:
Make a left on West Camino Cielo from the 154. Drive across a short bridge and park in the turnout on the right. Walk back towards the bridge and cut down into the river. Follow the river until you see a rock outcropping on the right. If you get to the Lower Noir Boulders you have gone too far. Climb up the hill and skirt the base of the rock outcropping.

In the middle of main area, is a short problem:
Red, Easy - SDS, climb up the arete


Adjacent to that boulder are three high balls:


Continue up the ridge and past the bolted arete, to a this slab:
Black, Easy - SDS, climb face

At the top of largest of rock formation is another problem:
Purple, Hard - SDS on large holds, move up and left to the arete, slopping top out

Upper Noir, Part II

At the Upper Noir Boulders, there are a couple of problems on the backside of the main boulders:
Green, Medium - SDS on two small crimps, traverse left, starting standing and left is easier
Blue, Easy - SDS, make a dynamic move to large jug, traverse left

Upper Noir, Part IIl

The prominent arete in Upper Noir:

SDS, climb arete then traverse right to key undercling, sloping top-out

The short overhanging face around the corner :

SDS undercling, make a large move to two sloping pinches, then mantle

Upper Noir, Part IV

The first boulder in Upper Noir:
Red, Easy - Stand start on right hand crimp and left hand hueco, go up and left.

The river/downhill side of the adjacent boulder:
Blue, Easy - SDS on left hand hueco and right hand undercling, move to crimps and pocket, and low angle top out

Upper Noir, Part V

There is alternative start to the problem on the top of largest formation:

Green, Hard - SDS, traverse left, compress arete, sloping top out

Upper Noir, Part VI

There is a bolted line not listed in the Edwards Guide:

Upper Noir, Part VII

Just downhill from the main area of the Upper Noir Boulders is a tall arete.

Dave is 6ft tall and grabbing the starting hold.