Sunday, June 17, 2012

Repost: Santa Barbara Bouldering Video

Bravo to Trevor on his profile of selected Santa Barbara classics.

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Please Be Nice to Santa Barbara Bouldering

Recently, I came across this rant.

I've moved away from the Central Coast of California, but it still has a place in my heart. The people, environment, and climbing of Santa Barbara are special. Treat them with due respect.

Wednesday, December 31, 2008


This blog describes climbing around Santa Barbara not covered in the guide books, here and here.

It is not complete, authoritative, or very accurate. It is just a starting point. I don't care enough about names, grades, or first ascents to argue about them. I have only included names of climbs which I have heard other climbers use. I choose to grade problems : Easy, Medium, and Hard. No first ascent information is given.

I have enjoyed the climbs profiled here.
I hope others enjoy them also.

Monday, December 29, 2008

Upper Upper San Ysidro, Directions

This place has a peaceful secluded feeling with impeccable rock quality. You will have to work for it. It is a 30 minute uphill hike from the trailhead to the first boulder. Park at the San Ysidro Trailhead, directions, and hike towards the San Ysidro Climbing Area.

At the gate, head up the fire road (blue arrow) and not towards San Ysidro Climbing Area (black arrow).

After 15 minutes from the trailhead, you will see this rock formation.

After 20 minutes from the trailhead, turn onto a smaller trail (blue arrow) before the road drops and turns left.

After 30 minutes from the trailhead, you will see the first boulder on the right immediately off the trail.

(The comments concern the first photos of the place and my dilemma about publishing it.)

Sunday, December 28, 2008

Upper Upper San Yisdro, Part I

The first rock is immediately off the trail the right.
Red, Easy - Grab head high jug on the right side arete
Blue, (?) - Lip traverse from left to right. Start at crack and finish on Red

About 20 ft up the trail from the first boulder, the top of a boulder in the riverbed is visible. This boulder is well-featured with excellent rock quality.
There are at least two lines on the trail side :
Red, Easy - SDS, move to inverted "fang" then to acute edges
Blue, (?) - Overhanging arete, possible harder SDS

The backside of the same boulder is well featured and high.

About 200 ft up the river (follow the trail), there is a small boulder in the river:

Just up the river (it is best to follow the trail), there is a crack: